Handcrafted History

Historical and modern handcraft mixed with adventures


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From a Viking market

Gunnes gårds yearly autumn market is a really cozy place to be, and me and love traveled there to have a viking weekend together. There was a downpour when we arrived on Friday afternoon, but the rest of the weekend offered lovely weather and fun meetings. I hade a really busy time, and didn’t get as many photos as I would have liked, but maybe that is just a sign of having fun?

I brought my work with me, as usual, and we were hanging in our new market tent, meeting new friends and just having a good time. The tent is a market tent for all those viking markets (and for me when I travel alone) since the larger pavilion is medieval style, and also quite heavy to bring by myself. I am happy with the tent, though the large double bed we have is a bit big for it, but hey- it is hard to have it all!

During Saturday and Sunday I held two lectures about viking age clothing from a visitor’s perspective, hoping to lure more people into the interesting world of viking age… Love sat by the tent during that time, to try to help customers with questions. He is not by far as handcrafty or interested in clothing as I am (being more of a brewer/archer/gamer), but he sure looks the part in his outfit =)

Tried out a new hairstyle inspired from a find from pre viking age. It is a french braid from the top of the head going down, and then another regular braid with all the hair, twisted into a bun and pinned into place with the hair pin made of wood. Quite simple, doable without a mirror, but holds in place during the day. I like it, I will definitely try it out again!

I also got to try out my new apron dress. It is made in a very thin blue wool fabric, with a matching veil/thin shawl in the same fabric. Perfect for those warm market days during summer. Under I have a bleached linen shift. The jewels and beads I think you have seen before; it is all old and the glass beads are those I made myself. Here is also the hairstyle from the side, a bit worn since it was afternoon by the time we took the pictures

We also got the most awesome neighbours to hang out with! Two really talented spinners, one of them here with Susanna who runs Viking age clothing. I really recommend her patterns if you want to sew viking clothing for yourself, she is very knowing and talented in viking era clothing!

S, our neighbour, also had a very cool minimalistic camp, with just a small sleeping area, a cooking fire and some personal equipment.

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Now I am back home, and since this was the last market for the season, I am doing some after-season work; washing and mending clothing, taking care of camping equipment, packing everything down, writing lists and such. I am also doing a look over of the wardrobe and camp, and plan to sell of some things that has not been used during the season. Most things will be up shortly on facebook or my Etsy, so be sure to check in there every once in a while!

 


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My best tips for making a matching outfit

Making that matching outfit doesn’t have to difficult or impossible expensive, but it does take a fair bit of planning: before. Yes, I know it is the most boring part, but thinking before shopping is what makes the thing. So I put together a list of my best tips for making an outfit that makes everyone go “Wow” when they see it.

1. Decide on a colour scheme that you like, and follow it. You should have 2 base colours, with additional tones to match. In my case, orange and warm yellow is my main colours, as you can see on the amber necklace, the woven belt, the shawl and the apron dress. The hair band have a darker orange colour, but it is warm and intense to match the other tones. The red coat and the middle woolen dress brings in the additional colours to make the outfit interesting but have likewise a warm toned base.

2. Add some contrast or mismatch to intensify your matching outfit (yes, it works like that) it could be the opposite colour (red-green or yellow-blue) or a really dark detail to an otherwise light outfit. In my case, the green glass beads does match the yellow tones, but breaks nicely with the red ones. Still, they are in the same warm tone as the rest of the outfit. The uncoloured beige dress is another example; it doesn’t follow the main theme but have a warmer undertone so it works fine with the other  warmer shades.

3. Patterns or texture adds interest and depth to any colour. My apron dress is woven in a herringbone twill, and the coat is a bit uneven in its colour due to different dyes in the fabric, which is barely visible but adds texture and interest to the finished garment.

4. Darker and lighter shades; when choosing your colours make sure you have different shades and not only different colours. For example; yellow-orange-red make for a change in both colour and shade, but a light blue paired with a similar light green makes the outfit a bit flat. Add a darker green or blue-green tone and you will make the outfit more interesting!

5. Layers; plan for all the layers at once, and make sure they have different tones, shades or textures if they follow the same colour theme. In this case, you won’t end up having two orange dresses on top of each other, and can make sure that details will be visible.

6. Details; don’t we all love a well put together outfit? Making details lifts an outfit, and it can be both jewelry, accessories as well as useful tools, a knife, a jug or something like. Match it in colour, tone, shade or shape to your outfit. In my case, I chose to make a tablet weave to reinforce the apron dress, make the straps, and a matching headband. Having the same colour/pattern appear in different places adds interest and makes the outfit look well planned and matching.

7. Consider your own colours; colour schemes and matching is a whole science on its own, and there is plenty to read or check out on YouTube. Matching colours, creating interesting outfits and the like works the same way on historical clothing as on modern outfits or make up. Consider your own colours, if you have a warm or cold undertone in your skin, and consider what you like to wear. Using those kinds of colours will both make you more comfortable and happy during historical events. But also consider the historical finds; if you love to wear black and dark blue maybe that is not the best choise for your farmer viking outfit. But as these are considered as neutral colours in our modern eyes, maybe a dark grey with soft, plant dyed blues will do great for your viking outfit?

Got inspired? Did you find this guide useful? Please let me know by liking my FB page or leaving a comment on the blog!

 


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The Viking Amber Project

This is my latest just-because-it’s-nice project. I wanted to make a viking outfit on a certain theme; so I chosed my amber necklace and worked from that one to create a whole outfit.

Some pieces you might recognise from before; the shawl is my first handweaved project, and the apron dress is in fact the orange dress that I have cut out and redid into an apron dress since my shoulders and back have become a bit bigger (hello gym!) To make straps and a supporting band around the upper hem I made a tablet woven band and sewed it into place.

I also made a bit extra to wear as a headband, looks kind of cute, and is practical for keeping your hair in place and for pinning a veil to it. It is tied in the neck with a knot. I got the idea from a grave in Birka/Björkö were there was a find of the same band on both clothing and skull, though I didn’t read how the band on the skull was arranged or if it was sewed onto something.

The hairdo is inspired from an Iron age find of a woman having her hair in plaited buns (aka Leia buns almost) but to achieve a more historical look, a bit of fake hair could be applied (women seem to have had more and longer hair when washing and chemicals weren’t the thing). It is also a bit messy from having a rest in the tent earlier.

The jewelry is based on findings from mostly Sweden, the brooches from Öland, and some of the bronze items like the needle case is from Historiska Fynd. The glass beads I have made myself, the amber necklace and some other jewelry is bought on different viking markets. Amber beads is found in several graves; if you want to use amber in your viking outfit look for big, regularly shaped beads, or faceted ones. The small nuggets are very modern, the viking lady seemed to prefer her beads big and luxurious.

About the layers: the linen shift is barely visible and over that is a hand stitched woolen dress of uncoloured wool from Medeltidsmode. The apron dress is made of thin wool and have tablet woven bands on it. The coat is made of a wool, also from Medeltidsmode, and hand stitched with woolen thread. Wearing several woolen layers is a good way of staying warm in the autumn season, but they get a bit heavy, so for comfort I used my tablet woven wool belt to fasten the skirts at the waist, so my hips could carry some weight from the outfit.

To keep the shawl in place I fastened it with the brooches; in this way my neck stays warm but you can still se the rest of the outfit and the jewelry at the front. For a warmer look, I use a small brooch to fasten it at the front beneth my breasts.

Historically? There is sometimes a different amount of loops or fabric underneth the tortoise brooches in finds, indicating that several layers of clothing was held in place by the brooches, and sometimes more layers on the bottom or the top of the brooches. But there is also several graves with clasps or brooches at the front of the body with fabric in them, suggesting that the woman wore an other garment that fastened at the front, like a cloak, shawl or coat. But really, there is much we doesn’t know for sure- so this is a “suggested way of wearing viking clothes” and not a “we now this for sure-outfit”.

Without the coat and with the shawl pushed back. Still comfy and warm, without having to hold the shawl in place by myself.

 

Putting on the shawl. Here you can also se the knot at the neck for the head band.

Dramatic and cool viking woman! Yeah! (I was having a bad cold at the moment, but you can always pretend)

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Making a better Apron dress

I though I would share my best tips and tricks for making good apron dresses, since I have made a whole bunch of them by now, and probably most of the mistakes to…

Nr 1. Use enough fabric. I know it’s tempting to save on the fabric, but trust me. To short and tight a dress will look like a modern dress.

Nr 2. Use a thin enough fabric. Save the sturdy, felted wool fabrics for a coat or a cape and chose a thin, rather loosely woven fabric. It should be comfortable and have a nice fall, try to drape it over a piece of furniture, like a table, and look how the folds drape.

Nr 3. Try it on while sewing with all your other layers of clothing, to make sure you will have enough room under the apron dress for a shift and a possible warmer dress if you think you will be needing that.

Nr 4. Dont make the straps to long. I think it looks very strange when women are wearing their dresses at the middle of their bust, or even under their nipple area. Please don’t.

Nr 5. If you don’t have tortoise brooches to fasten your dress with, don’t use modern buttons or fastenings in the meantime. The latest thing I have read about apron dresses is that 1. you don’t have to wear them for reenacting a viking woman and 2. they wear always worn with brooches, like the dress being an accessory to the jewelry and not the other way around. So skip the apron dress if you don’t own the brooches, or sew the straps directly to the dress itself.

Nr 6. Thin fabric could be lined with a strip of linen or you can use lining inside the whole dress to make it sturdier.

Nr 7. You could also sew on a piece of tablet woven band or a thin silk strip around the upper part of the dress, to make it durable, enhance the fitting and also, for decoration.

Nr 8. Decorating your dress doesn’t have to be expensive. Use thin strips of patterned silks, tablet woven bands, viking silver posaments, or just a braided cord. On the small figurines, it seems like there is decoration around the hem of the dress, and in grave finds there is remnants of silk and decorations around the upper part, partly inside the tortoise brooches. Save money and time and decorate only the upper part of the dress, or do the whole thing!

Nr 9. Use the same type of thread as the decoration you want to sew to your dress. Silk thread for silk fabrics, wool thread for woven bands, and a very thin and fine silk thread for posaments. This will give you a nice seam, that is as little visible as possible, and doesn’t damage the decorations.

Nr 10. To protect your dress from the everyday stains; use a belt to fasten up your dress while working, this will protect the hem from mud, open fire and stains. Also, an apron is a very good choise for protecting your clothes. Or remove the apron dress and work in your shift or woolen dress. It seems the apron dress was a status symbol and finer wear, so it is probable that women didn’t wear them while laboring.

 

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Min guide till Medeltidsveckan

Elin som driver Nevnarien.se gjorde en sådan himla fin guide till Medeltidsveckan i Visby, så jag blev inspirerad att skriva min egen. Elin älskar sagovärlden, schysst stämning och snygga fotomiljöer, och kanske märks det i hennes guide? Vad jag är insnöad på, det får ni veta här…

(this post is only in Swedish, and is a guide for the medieval week in Visby. Are you going? Use google translate to get some good tip about places to go!)

Varför ska du åka till medeltidsveckan?

För att det är en glad, kärleksfylld och inspirerande festival med medeltidstema. Passar både dig som gillar fantasy, sagor och medeltid; gammal som ung, turistig eller genuin. Du som är inbiten reenactare åker med inställningen att du kommer behöva dela allt magiskt med tusentals turister- men ju fler desto roligare?

Var ska du bo?

Om du har medeltida läger; I Styringheims SCAläger utanför murarna. Förutom att det är ett tryggt läger med vakter, mat, god logistik och nära till innerstan är det ett superbra sätt att hitta en medeltidsförening nära dig, träffa nya vänner och lära dig mer om medeltida hantverk, kämpalek, bågskytte och matlagning. SCAiter är kända för att strössla fritt med både kunskap och vänskap- bästa hänget, och bästa festerna händer här tycker jag.

Om du har ett modernt tält eller åker för att medeltidshänga avslappnat: Medeltidsveckans camping (som har två olika delar) har rykte om sig att vara en trevlig camping, och här behöver du inte gömma filpaket och icapåse vilket uppmuntras till i SCAlägret- där man gör sitt bästa för att hålla en illusion av den goda medeltiden under dygnets alla timmar.

Eller hyr privat- det kan bli lite av varje men definitivt mer personligt än ett hotellrum!

Var ska du äta?

Jag som är både vegetarian och allergisk blir sällan imponerad av krog eller restaurangutbud. Det brukar bli lite sallader, lite thai, en taccotallrik på Yoda (här snålas inte på tallriken) och häng på Munkkällaren, förutom de medeltida restaurangerna. Wisby glass säljer den bästa färska glassen, och Wisby ost (liten delikatessbutik) har bästa lyxsnacksen och superbra glutenfritt bröd.

Det finns alltså några guldkorn med bra mat inne i Visby stad, och några hak som lastar på smaskig mat sent på kvällen (gå dit ortsborna går!) men det bästa hänget får du genom att köpa med dig picknickmat från någon av mataffärerna utanför ringmuren. Bunkra upp en stor korg full av bröd, frukt, ost, korv och dryck och komplettera med pinfärska morötter och hallon från stora marknaden. Ta med allt till strandpromenaden, gräsytorna på marknadsplatsen eller en gratis spelning och få världen mysigaste picknick. Ni vet väl att picknick kan ätas minst tre gånger om dagen? Ps; extra choklad och jordgubbar lockar till sig nya vänner.

Eldshow och picknick. Passar ihop

Vilka aktiviteter är bäst?

Medeltidsveckan börjar redan på färjan över; ta med fika och något att sy på så kommer du passa in som en smäck bland alla glada medeltidsmänniskor som paniksyr in i det sista. Att sy på färjan över är liksom en tradition. På färjan hem syr du inte. Då sover du. Och förbannar alla barnföräldrar som släpper sina monster fria att härja som de vill.

Forum Vulgaris på marknadsplatsen har drivits av Proknekt under flera år, bästa stället att hänga på för att få se föreställningar. Spana också in programmet för att hitta små godbitar i form av öppna spelningar, dans och workshops som händer runt om i innerstaden.

Om man gillar det tyska 1500talsmodet så är 100 knektars marsch också ett måste- ja, för alla som gillar coola upplevelser! Trummor och musik ekar genom Visbys gator och vibrationerna från hundratals fötter känns i hela kroppen när över 100 knektar tågar genom staden. Gå med du också!

På Kapitelhusgården håller jag, och flera andra skickliga hantverkare kurser och föreläsningar under veckan; så kom förbi och lär dig helt nya hantverkstekniker! Många har hållit kurser i flera år, är riktiga proffs och framstående inom sina områden, så här finns möjlighet att gå på kurser du annars hade behövt resa runt halva Sverige för att få tillgång till.

Picknickhäng i samband med spelningar, köande till spelningar och som fest efter spelningar är mysigt.

Medeltidsloppisen är jätterolig och verkligen vad den låter som- men fler har upptäckt den så var beredd på att komma tidigt och köa!

Folksagosånger med David och Karro ska jag försöka pricka in; senast vi lyssnade på duon så var det både stämningsfullt, bra och underfundigt roligt.

Vackraste platserna:

Botaniska trädgården är ett av mina favoritställen under dagarna; vacker trädgård, fina bänkar och glada människor som strosar förbi. Kapitelhusgårdens lilla marknad + ett glas dryck under eftermiddagen innan det blir trångt här. Strandpromenaden under solnedgången, Trixs eldshow under onsdagskvällen (gå dit för stämningen lika mycket som för showen) och Visby innerstad med alla trånga gränder och vackra rosor som klättrar längs husfasaderna. Magiskt!

Utanför Visby finns vacker landsbygd på väg till rauken Jungfrun och Blå Lagunen, ett kalkstensbrott som bjuder på klart och varmt badvatten. Väl värt en dagsutflykt.

Hur lång semester?

Hela veckan, minst! Medeltid är det från lördag till nästa veckas söndag, och vill du ser mer av Gotland så kanske du behöver några dagar till. Jag kan aldrig fatta att en vecka kan gå så fort, och hinner aldrig se och göra allt jag har tänkt mig. Å andra sidan är jag ju en inbiten medeltidsnörd, och jobbar dessutom halva veckan. De senaste åren har det tagit mig några dagar att ens hinna mingla ned till marknaden…

Tänk på:

Det kan bli riktigt råkallt på kvällarna- ta med en varm mantel (eller jacka/tjocktröja).

Ett paket vätskeersättning, att blanda i dricksvattnet under varma dagar när du promenerar mycket, är bra att ta med. Ta också med en stor flaska att ha vatten i, fyller på gör du vid vattenstationerna på marknaden.

Visbys gator består till stor del av kullersten eller asfalt- ta med riktigt sköna skor att gå i så knäna inte klagar efter halva veckan.

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Dagens lästips

Idag blir det ett kort inlägg, jag är på resande fot för lite materialinköp till framtida kurser, umgänge med nya och gamla vänner och sömnad hela helgen lång!

Är du intresserad av vikingatid? Då har Burr på Historiska fynd gjort en samling mycket läsvärda artiklar som handlar om smycken och dräkt av olika slag. Perfekt för dig som funderar på vad du vill skaffa till din vikingadräkt eller vill veta mer. Bra läsning med massor av källor!

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Glötagillet 2016

My SCA group (Gyllengran) arranged a handcraft-themed event a while ago, so I thought I should show you some photos, and a couple of nice outfits that I photographed during the event. It was a chilly autumn day with a cold wind, so here comes some nice inspiration for alla of you who want to be outside without freezing. My outfit? Never mind, I actually kind of forgot it was cold outside and brought to little clothes. Lucky for me it was warm inside.

I wore my old blue winter dress, good for cold events. Here together with silk accessories like me new silk sleeves, purse, tablet woven belt and hairband, everything 14th century. But I would have needed another woolen dress, mittens and a hood to stay warm outside.

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The hairdo seemed to be rather simple, but turned out a bit tricky to achieve on my own, the braids wanted to fall down so I had to use some bobby pins. But after a few tests it worked out nicely, not one of my favorites but ok and historical accurate enough. I think I need more training in hairdos….

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I braided two simple braids and ended them with thin rubber bands, then I attached the braids to each other on top of my head with some bobby pins so they would lie secure while I twisted the band/ribbon around them. With the hairband I then pulled them tightly around my head, wrapped the band at the base of my neck, and knotted it at the start of the braids.

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At the event, the theme for this year was “hard handicraft” which basically means any handicraft that is worked out with tree, metal, glas and the like… So we had workshops in beadmaking, bronze casting, different jewelry classes and beermaking. Beer? If you know my group, then you would know that beer is a totally appropriate thing to do during such a theme. Actually, during any event, handicraft or not… While drinking coffe, of course.

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Historical beer making

 img_1275Making models for the bronze casting

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Historical glass beads in the making, with modern equipment.

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Lali’s amazing outfit from different views. English 16th century.

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Y visited with a new family member

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Great 16th century coat/jacket to keep warm! Have to make me one of those…

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S/A kept warm with a loose fitting, woolen overdress and linen veil and wimple. Great way to protect yourself from cold winds.

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Sessan in her 16th century English gown, worn over an apron, a kirtle and a shirt/shift.

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Also, lace edged underpants, socks and shoes. Good way to keep warm, and underpants- they are kind of sexy right?

Need to make me a pair of those to. And maybe a new outfit to go with them…

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Eleanor with her warm 14th century outfit. A dress with holes in the side for wearing your purse safely inside the dress, and warming your hands to.

Hood, veil and bycocket and a brocade purse with tassels.

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I made this two stand still to take some pictures of them. E (left) is wearing his viking era outfit.

A (right) has a 14th century coat made from the Herjolfnes find with hood, mittens and a coif under a felted hat.

The SCA as a community has a period span from 600 AD to 1600 AD so during our events there’s really a mix of different time periods and outfits. Great to finding new inspiration, but sometimes hard on your saving-for-new-fabric-money…

It was a great event, and after all the workshops during the day the event continued inside with food, drinks and party during the evening.

 

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