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The Skjoldehamn hood is a find from the 11th century, and because it is the only find of this type of garment (from Scandinavia) dated close to the Viking age period, it is often used as a Viking/Iron age garment by reenactors.
We don’t know who the garment belonged to; man or woman, rich or poor, or if the wearer considered themself a part of the Viking culture, the native Sami culture, or both. The clothing was found in a bog burial in northern Norway and the garment items resemble modern Sami clothing according to articles I found on the subject. But the hood also reminds us of the later medieval hoods, although it has square gores. Hoods with slits over the shoulders, or long cloaklike hoods can be seen from earlier periods in Europe.
Skjoldehamn in Norway
All considered, it is a good choice to make if you need a warm garment for iron-age clothing and want a hood, at least if you have a north Scandinavian-based outfit, a Birka-based Viking outfit might have had a hat instead. Overall, the hood is probably more common in reenacting than it was during it’s lifetime, but who does not want a practical garment when it is cold or wet?
Materials:
Most outdoor clothing that has been found from the period seems to be practical rather than decorative. Choose a warm and sturdy fabric, slightly fulled, and use wool or linen thread for sewing. The original has a seam on top of the head to give the hood some shaping, and a pair of cords on the side to pull it closer to the head. This tutorial is a simplified version without these elements, but feel free to add them if you like. And don’t be afraid of piecing together the hood if needed, piecing is very historical!
How to make the pattern:
The hood is constructed with two long rectangles (or one piece folded at the top) and two squares.
This guide give you a hood similar to the original, covering your shoulders but not your arms. You could also make a longer one by lengthening measure B.
A is the depth of the hood, measure from the face where you want the opening to be, around your head and back. Divide the measurement in 2. I like deeper hoods to get protection from wind and rain, I usually have 32 cm.
B is the length of the hood from the head down to the shoulder, measure yourself from the top of the head, following your body, to the shoulder point (where the shoulder ends). Mine is 60 cm.
Measurement C is the face opening, measure around the whole face, under the chin, to get an opening. Try pulling the measuring tape “on and off” the head so you know if the opening is big enough to be comfortable. I like a looser opening to accommodate hairstyle/veils. Divide the measurement you get by 2. Mine is 34 cm.
Measurement D is B-C; the length of the hood minus the opening, 26 cm on my hood. D is also the sides of the gores.
You can make a paper pattern with these measurements. If you want to include seam allowance while drafting the paper pattern, add 2 cm to all measurements before drawing the pieces. Otherwise, do it directly on the fabric.
How to make the hood: Put the pattern pieces on the fabric and add seam allowance by drawing 1 cm outside all paper pieces.
You may cut the long rectangle in one piece, or in two pieces that are sewn together on top of the head. Cut out 2 square gores, one for the front and one for the back.
If this is your first hood, basting it together is a good choice to try out the fit. if you like it, leave the basting thread in as a guide while sewing. If you want to adjust anything it is easier to remove basting than a sewn seam.
sewing order
Start with sewing the seam on top of the head, if you have one.
Sew one side of each gore to the rectangle, right side to right side.
After that, fold the rectangular piece at the top to make it look like a hood, and pin the gores to the rectangle. Sew the gores from the bottom and up.
In the back, you continue with the seam all the way up to the top.
Finish the face opening by folding in the raw edge, press it and whip stitch it in place.
Repeat with the bottom edge.
Tip: In the front, sew the hood together 1 cm above the gore for added durability, and then leave the face opening.
Seams:
Sew the hood with backstitching to make it sturdy, or use running stitches if you are in a hurry.
Finish the seams by pressing the seam allowance, cut one side down and press it to that side, and whip stitch it down for added strength. I like to fold the seam allowance toward the larger piece; in this case, I sew the seam allowance down to the main hood and not the squares. In the back seam you can fold it either way.
There are two cool finds of sewn mittens available at the National Museum of Iceland’s webpage and you can see them here and here. They are both sewn in wool cloth and constructed with a separate piece making the thumb. I adore the Garðar Mitten and decided to make a pair for myself.
My first thought was to make them as a type of over-mitten to be worn over my regular needle-bound ones, but then I got sidetracked while making the pattern and made the grey ones the exact size for my hands. So I made another pair in red, for really cold days.
The outside of the mitten is larger than the inside, meaning you will shape the outer side around the inner, creating a gathered effect that is both pretty and practical.
The tumb is inserted in a round hole in the hand, making it both fun to do and comfortable to wear.
Tips for working with the pattern:
Add seam allowance to the mittens, 1-1,5 cm. Remember to sew with the correct seam allowance, small garments really differ in size if you are lazy with the seam allowance.
The tumb seam can be made in different ways; by using a backstitch and sewing the pieces right side together, or:
If you find it difficult to make the thumb insertion seam, try treating it like an “inserted gore” from my tutorial, and press the seam allowance on the inside piece, before sewing it to the thumb piece. (I will show you how to do it below, on the red mitten).
Or go inspired and fasten the thumb piece from the outside as I did with the grey mittens, adding a decorative seam to protect the fabric edge.
Step by step instructions
Place the paper pattern pieces on the fabric with some space in between for seam allowance, and pin the paper in place.
Trace around with a fabric marker, 1 cm outside the pattern. Use a ruler/measuring stick to guide you.
In small projects, some extra seam allowance can make a big difference. To help yourself making the garment the right size, you can trace around the pattern pieces with a basting thread.
It is fast, and you will know exactly were to place your seam. Here the basting line is blue, and I moved the pattern piece for it to show better on the photo.
Cut out all your pieces (remember to check that you have a left and right mitten before doing this).
Tip: it is always easier to cut a sharp line if you have a sharp scissor, and cutting the fabric with the scissor resting on a table.
Pieces ready for basting and trying on!
Start with basting the tumb together at the top, down to the start of the semicircle shape.
Use your blue basting lines, pair them together and pin the tumb in place on the inside piece. Work from the right side of the mitten, the blue lines should line up on top of each other.
Variations: If you want to sew your mitten according to the seam in the original, use a backstitch and attach the pieces right side to right side. If you want to use the “attached gore method”, scroll down to the red mitten photos.
Bast the tumb in place, with the raw edge of the inside piece visible.
Baste the inside seam of the wrist, and continue up basting the tumb to the outside piece.
Before basting the rest of the mitten together, put in a gathering seam around the top piece to to gather it to match the inside. If you have already basted the seam allowance to guide you, you may use this thread and pull it gently to gather the top of the outside fabric together.
Gather the fabric so it fits to the inside piece, and distribute the folds evenly. Sew a basting seam holding them together.
Baste around the top and continue down to the gore. Put this in place, baste both sides, and then you are ready to try the mitten on!
Looks nice! Remember to try your mitten on with the right side out.
I chose a linen thread 35/2 and backstitches, to make the seam sturdy. I follow along the basting threads, and rip these out as I go along (or afterwards if you prefer). Place the seam 1 mm inside the basting seam instead of on top of it, to avoid sewing the basting seam to the mitten.
The tumb is secured with whip stitches, this is on the inside while felling the seam. You can see some red thread which is the decoration from below. I felled the seams to one side after sewing them, to make the mitten more comfortable and the seams more resistant to water.
To secure the raw edge of the inside piece where the thumb is, I chose to make a decorative stitching with wool thread, sewing on the right side. I used a blanket stitch for the edge, and then an embroidery stitch for added decor. Instead of doing this, you can whipstitch the tumb in place on the right side.
Decorating mittens are fun, but don’t show in the historical sources I used.
Soon finished, now I need to finish the embroidery and hem the bottom edge!
The historical red mittens
I made another pair of mittens to be used for medieval reenactment, big enough to be able to insert a smaller mitten or lining for added warmth. These are made without embroidery, and instead I made the thumb hole seam like this:
Cut the pieces out as above, and then fold the seam allowance in, but only in the tumb hole. Press with an iron to make it lie flat.
Work from the right side and pin the tumb in place. If the tumb seem a bit large for the hole, don’t mind that but just follow the seam allowance. This will create more space for movement for the tumb.
Whip stitch the tumb in place, from the right side. (This is what I referred to when I wrote that you can use the “inserted gore” method.)
Another round of whipstitching on the inside to secure the seam allowance. Make the tumb on the other mitten the same way, and finish the rest of the mittens as above.
Felling seams inside small garments: It is often easier to finish one seam before making the next one. Sew one seam, press and cut it, then sew it down with whipstitching. After that, take the next seam etc.
If you want to sew the mitten together first, I find it easier to work with my hand inside the mitten while felling seams. This way you can adjust the seam and seam allowance while sewing, and keep the fabric stretched out. You are also sure not to accidentally sew throught the next layer of mitten.
Stretching out the fabric and seam with my hand, while sewing with the other.
If you want to make a pair yourself, the pdf including a pattern, can be found on my Etsy and Patreon. If you have 2023 years Advent Calendar, you will find the pattern in there. If you have larger or smaller hands than size 9-11, you might need to make a mock up/test the mittens in cheap fabric to adjust the sizing (mainly the width and lenght of the front and back pieces).
This is a short, and hopeful, encouraging guide to get you started with historical sewing and adventuring.
There are many paths down this hobby, depending on your interests and where you live. Look for local groups and events and what they do, and try out different things.
Some examples on activities/groups to try:
SCA (Society of creative anachronism).
Reenactment groups that specialise in different periods.
Friend-based groups that accept new members.
Larping (live-action role-playing).
Markets/fairs that focus on a period you are interested in.
Landmarks like castles, ruins or museums might have groups helping them create a living environment.
Online meetings, workshops, groups etc.
In some areas, you will find lots of different, open activities to choose from. In others, not so many. Remember; many time travelling enthusiasts travel a lot to get to their favourite activities so even if you don’t find the best parts close to you, there might be others living nearby that you don’t know yet.
If you find anything of interest, be sure to reach out to them, tell them that you would like to join and ask about the requirements. Some groups are open to visit, others are invites only or require you to have a certain standard to your gear before joining. Remember that most groups are voluntary based so you will meet other enthusiasts working for free, not some big business with staff readily available!
What outfit do you need?
This depends on where you are going and what groups you would like to join. Before sewing, it could be a great idea to first scout your options for activities. Some group/fairs/events require you to wear a specific time period for attending. Or if you just love to sew; start with doing different outfits and then go to events where you can enjoy wearing them!
Handcrafting camp at “Medeltidsdagar på Hägnan”.
Generally speaking; when planning your first outfit for going to an event over a day or so linen underwear (shirt/shift) under some kind of wool clothing, maybe with a hat/veil/headwear and a belt with some kind of bag will be enough. A cloak, if you want to stay during the evening, might be good. Shoes are often hard to find at first, but if you have funds to spare webshops offer different models that might do. Again; before spending your hobby budget on something it might be good to wear a pair of discreet sandals or boots on your first trip, and then inquire for tips on footwear. This might save you a lot of money and trouble!
How do you make an outfit?
Nowadays, the internet is bursting with info free to grab and make do with. Start with choosing what period you are really into; Viking age, high Medieval era or the 18th-century court will all have very different styles. The next step is to collect: information, pictures, photos, inspiration… Try to look into both contemporary sources such as books, paintings etc from the period, what research, science and finds show, as well as inspiration from other reenactors. This way, you will build up your own sense of what would be a good choice of clothing.
Buying fabric for your outfit is so much fun, but also hard!
Don’t know where to start? Say you are interested in the 15th century North Europe style; start googling that. Check out artists living in the period (find them on Wiki) and what happened politically and fashionable during this era. (Before you know it, you will be super educated about a whole new period in history…)
Were could you buy an outfit?
Not into sewing… at all? No worries, lot’s of people are not. There are plenty of businesses today selling reenactment gear of different qualities. The problem is, of course, to find the right place with garments and items with a quality that is suitable for what you intend to do. Before shopping (and risk being disappointed) decide on where you want to go and try to connect with a group around that interest/period/area and ask them for good shopping tips. I would of course advise you to go local; shop within your country from seller’s that makes the items themself and may customize them for you. Better quality might cost more, but it also has a better lasting value if you want to upgrade in the future.
Ask a friend!
I know you probably have a thousand questions. Because I had when I started. Am I allowed to bring a toothbrush? What shall I eat? How are people sleeping at that event? Is this expensive? Is it fun? I may of course not answer all questions in this text, but if you are wondering about something specific; feel free to write a comment here and I will do my best to answer everything or send you to someone better suited! And yes, toothbrushes are allowed…
Advise from others:
I asked on my FB page for more advice for beginners and had lots of great suggestions from readers and friends. I didn’t bring them all, but wanted to share some of them!
Karine “Try to find out what you really want to create. Follow your own fire. Ask as many questions as you want. And remember that everybody makes mistakes sometimes. And sometimes mistakes can turn into something even better.”
Elin (translated to English) …”remember to drink water, nap, use sunscreen and eat your meals. Even schedule rest time along with activities. Change clothing for sleeping. A headwear is fantastic! The protect you from heat stroke, sun and can be moisten (to cool you down).”
On the subject on finding new friends: Volunteer! Attend handcrafting workshops. Join Fbgroups.
Adéle “Clothes and gear as a new player: Do -not- compare yourself to others (who might have had years and years of making and gathering their stuff). If you end up having fun and sticking with the hobby, the gear will come. Focus on following the recommendations of the organizers, staying warm and dry, and having fun.”
Agnes: “Try not to fall into the trap of “everybody else has such nice things and I will never be able to create that”. We have all been beginners, everybody starts out with different possibilities to budget, knowledge and amount of time we can put in to the hobby … Most people in the reenactor/sca/larp world are kind and helpful people. If they get told “I like your thing, how did you do it?” they will just be happy to be able to geek out with someone. Don’t expect them to hand you an IKEA kit though. You will have to learn some stuff for your own…”
Maja Elise: “Just start! When I made my first attempt at kit I didn’t know anyone else who did reenactment. Those clothes suck, but I’m so glad I just got started. Fun was had and experience earned.”
Fredrik: “For living history/reenactment, research first, then spend your money. It somebody says that something is ok, ask for their sources. If they can’t provide sources, don’t follow their advice.”
Minna: “Just go for it. You’ll probably want new stuff anyways after your first few events, so keep it simple.”
Me and my friend J traveled to Hamar in Norway this May to attend the medieval festival/market over a weekend, and here is a blog post about the event!
It really was a beautiful site, with the large lake stretching around the market and camping area, inviting for a swim in the warm weather. This is the reenactment camp, very nicely done and with an area for shows, riding and the like in front of it.
A short walk from the camp was the market, with lush green trees and an open space for market tents and performances.
Here is my tent! In a cozy corner in the road, under a big tree. We arrived the day before the market started so the first evening we just put up the tent, made some preparations and went about greeting friends and taking in the area.
Morning in the tent, hearing tree branches whispering in the wind and feeling the sun rise on the tent side.
Crafthive was on the market, selling belts and nice bags, among other things.
I also sold things from my shop, mainly historical accessories and jewelry, sewing materials and handcrafting items. It is fun to meet new people during markets, but more often than not I start talking with them and forget that I should sell my stuff… I really like holding workshops and lecturing more, but the shop is a nice way to be able to visit new places and travel more!
When no customers needed help, I sat down with new and old friends, having a chat and sewing on my new dress. Here it is, worn for the first time! The neck opening is just basted, but it was fun to get a chance to try it on. 15th century (yes, it’s much of that century right now) with proper hair and veil for the period.
I got a chance to visit this very interesting ruin, saved inside a glass room on the site.
And a visit with the Madonna and Child, a wooden sculpture made between 1200 and 1300 in Norway according to the sign. (Yes, visiting only in my shift! It was sooo hot that day)
I found Volundr on the market, and they sold the most lovely handcrafted jewelry based on different historical finds. When I laid my eyes on this 15th c necklace I promptly emptied my money-box over their table, and went back to my own tent much happier but also more broke…
After the market on Sunday, the wind had turned and there was rain in the air. We hurried to take down the tents, pack the cars with all stuff and then went to see if others needed help. Elna from Historical fabrics is my new favourite seller of thin linen for veils (among other things) and she was packing away her tent and all the fabrics when we came by. Phew! Fabric sellers have the worst time packing, we helped with some rolls of fabric and tent gear but there was some advanced tetris before she was finished.
I really love going on historical adventures! On the road towards Hamar we traveled across the mountains, some of them with snow still left, and then over the border to Norway and some very nice views along the way. It was sunny and we had a picnic packed in the car. On the road home, I was traveling alone since J had to go by train back to Stockholm, I hadn’t any food left and the weather was cold and rainy. Then the adventure seemed a bit less fun. But as they say; it’s good to leave on a journey but it’s great to be back home!
Den frågan får jag ofta av nyfikna, både moderna människor som inte åkt på medeltidsevent, men också av nybörjare som är lite sugna på ett medeltida läger eller SCA-event, men inte riktigt vet vad de ska vänta sig. Så vad innebär det att “bo medeltida”?
Jag bor oftast i mitt och Henriks tält som är sydd inspirerad av medeltida målningar. Det är gjort av ett impregnerat bomullstyg, tältställningen är gjord av trä, tältspiken av rejäla bockade järn och tältet säkras med naturrep. Tältet är alltså gjort för att passa in i olika medeltida miljöer, men är ingen “rekonstruktion” av exakt hur ett medeltida tält såg ut. Vi har sytt det själva på maskin och använt moderna redskap och verktyg, för att få ett hyfsat billigt och snyggt boende som vi enkelt tar med oss överallt. Tältet ryms utan problem i en vanlig bil tillsammans med övrig packning, och vi slår upp hela vårat läger med sovplatser och alla tillbehör på under en timme.
Några moderna tillbehör som vi gjorde när vi tillverkade tältet är bland annat ett extra rep inuti tältet som torkställning, dörrar som knyts omlott för att förhindra att mygg flyger in, stormlinor utanpå tältet och förstärkningar i skinn i tältets hörn för att göra det mer tåligt för storm.
På medeltids/vikingainspirerade lajv så får ingenting modernt synas eller höras, och det gäller också inuti tält eller andra boenden. När vi är på lajv sover vi ofta i vårat tält på diskreta luftmadrasser täckta med filtar och fällar, eller på moderna tältsängar som vi döljer noggrant. Jag sover som bäst med en kudde och ett duntäcke för kalla kvällar, men under och över dem har jag yllefiltar som skydd mot kyla och fukt, och för att tältet ska se bra ut om man kommer in. Vi döljer mat i kistor och korgar, en liten kylbox med kylklampar i en säck, och hänger upp våra lajvkläder över ett rep eller har dem i en korg. Mobilen, tandborsten och ev medicin förvaras i en speciell trälåda med ett tecken på (offrunan) som gör att folk varken rör lådan eller stjäl den under lajvet. Tanken är att du ska kunna gå in i tältet när som helst på dygnet och se dig omkring, leta bland hemliga kartor eller vad vi har och ändå inte kunna hitta något modernt. Letar du nog länge kanske du hittar några försvunna strumpor… Vill man ha med sig saker som är moderna så bör de här döljas och förvaringen märkas med en offruna så att ingen “av misstag” får syn på saker som inte hör till lajvet.
På de flesta lajv är toaletter, disk och matlagning platser där lajvet fortsätter på lite “lightnivå”, det är alltså din roll som går på toa, diskar eller tvättar händerna men det finns toapapper, tvål och diskmedel, i så snygg förvaring som möjligt. Toaletterna kan vara utedass eller egna byggen, eller vagnar som hyrts in.
På SCAevent så är reglerna för boende och tältläger mindre hårda än på lajv, och det räcker med att du stänger tältdörren om du har moderna saker i tältet. På SCAevent är ett stängt tält “stängt” och ingen annan kommer försöka gå eller titta in. Barnens leksaker, spritkök, Ipad med film och en ficklampa kan alltså ligga lättåtkomligt och användas, och ingen kommer gå in i ditt tält om det inte är öppet och har en välkomnande värd som bjuder in. Bjuder du in andra till tältfest eller kakfika så förväntar sig de flesta att du ska ha försökt röja undan moderna saker och bjuda in till en medeltida/vikingatida miljö, men det är inte ovanligt att mobiltelefoner, kameror eller en icapåse går förbi under ett SCAevent.
Ibland är SCAevent inrymda i historiska byggnader, och då bor vi historiskt inuti dessa med hjälp av de lägersaker och filtar vi tar med oss.
Här på SLIs område utanför Skellefteå.
Toaletter, duschar och diskplatser är ofta moderna med rinnande kallvatten, sopsortering och liknande och står på ett område lite avskilt från tälten. Maten du lagar eller äter är historiskt inspirerad, men ingen klagar över en burk med sylt, ostmackor eller att barnen har bananyogurt i sin trätallrik på morgonen.
Reenactment betyder återskapande av en viss period, och det finns flera olika grupper i Sverige och utomlands som har riktat in sig på olika perioder och försöker efterlikna dessa så noggrant som möjligt. Om du åker på ett vikingaevent så ska du alltså bo i ett vikingatida tält, och det som syns av din läger och sovplats ska vara så historiskt återskapande som det bara går. Det här gäller också din dräkt, din frukost och allt annat. På många vikingaevent så tar du inte med dig glasbehållare såsom en flaska mjölk eller en syltburk, eftersom glas inte användes på det sättet under vikingatid.
En vikingatida marknad där alla bor i sina vikingatida tält under helgen.
På medeltida event så bor du istället i ett tält som är gjort för att efterlikna medeltida paviljonger, och din dräkt, din mat och dina tillbehör ska passa in i den period som gruppen eller eventet återskapar. De flesta grupper som reenactar saker vill att, i likhet med lajv, allt som syns ska passa in i eventet, men ofta lägger man större vikt vid en speciell tidsperiod och mer tid på detaljer såsom medeltida recept vid matlagningen. Tandborstning, fotografering och mobilpratande ska inte ske i lägret, och om dessa saker tas med får de inte synas. Här finns också ett intresse av att prova saker såsom man gjorde förut, så bli inte förvånad över att sängen är en halmmadrass, någon byggde en ugn för att prova baka medeltida bröd eller dagens föreläsning handlar om olika tekniker för att bygga trämöbler. Ofta kan det kännas svårare att leva på ett reenactmentevent än på SCAevent, så om du vill åka på ett sånt kan det vara klokt att åka med en grupp och be dem om hjälp med allt du kan behöva skaffa eller bygga. Ofta får du till exempel inte ha glasögon, medicinska hjälpmedel såsom rullstol, barnvagn till barnen eller moderna skor vilket finns på alla SCAevent, så det kan vara bra att fundera igenom alla detaljer innan du åker!
Event har ofta tillgång till vägar in på området, så du kan få med dig alla saker utan att behöva bära alltför långt.
Du får vanligtvis köra in på området innan och efter eventet, inte under tiden det pågår.
Jag och H bor ju oftast tillsammans, men om han inte kan åka bor jag gärna med någon kompis. Att åka och bo själv går ju förstås bra, speciellt om du känner andra på eventet eller åker med en grupp, men bor man tillsammans så kan man också hjälpas åt att bära, sätta upp och riva tältet och ta hand om det tillsammans. Angående säkerhet och trygghet så har jag, under mina 15 år som lajvare och eventsåkare aldrig fått något stulet ur mitt tält, och jag har aldrig haft oinbjudet besök i tältet om man bortser från några turister som nyfiket kikat in och ett par barn som inte kunde motstå frestelsen att bara titta inuti en liten liten stund. Jag har aldrig hört om någon som varit med om obehagliga besök, för odrägliga grannar eller fått delar av sina tälttillbehör stulna. Så i allmänhet är lajvare och vikingatida/medeltida eventsåkare av alla slag trevliga och ärliga.
Men för den sakens skull så behöver man ju inte vara vårdslös: eld, värdesaker, läger utan vakt och ensamhet ska man vara försiktig med tycker jag. Lämna aldrig levande ljus eller eld i tältet om du är borta, om du vill att det ska vara upplyst när du kommer tillbaka i mörkret så kan du istället använda elektroniska värmeljus som du ställer in i en liten ljuslykta. Säkert och snyggt!
Värdesaker såsom dyra svärd och smycken, stora mängder pengar och fina kameror är också dumt att lämna öppet eftersom det trots allt kan försvinna saker. Jag förvarar till exempel inte min växelkassa i tältet, trots att det är praktiskt så vill jag kunna lämna tältet utan uppsikt en stund. I allmänhet är det dock ingen bra idé att lämna lägret utan uppsikt längre tider (hela dagar/nätter) utan att ha en grupp eller grannar som kan titta till det åt dig. På lajv där du bor ute i skogen kan du få besök av små eller större djur som gärna äter upp ditt matförråd, på öppna event där turister är välkomna så kan du ge dig sjutton på att någon bara “ville titta in lite” eller “se om sängen/maten/underkläderna var på riktigt” eller varför inte “låta barnen klättra lite på det roliga tältet” (jo, tro mig- det händer!) Sist, men inte minst, så är event såsom medeltidsveckan på Visby ofta blåsiga och det är inte bara en person som kommit tillbaka till sitt tält mitt i natten för att upptäcka att det blåst omkull, att duken blåst iväg eller att det har regnat in på filtarna. Inte alls roligt. Då känns det bra att veta att det finns grannar i närheten som tagit hand om ens saker eller rätat till tältet när man var borta.
Det kanske ser ut som tillträde undanbedes-skyltar med rött stopptecken och text på flera språk.
Men om du är liten och snabb och bara vill prova hoppa i sängen lite så gäller väl inte skylten dig?
Att bo själv i närheten av andra som du känner, och att bo helt ensam på ett större område är helt olika saker tycker jag. Det första är mycket tryggare, och inte i första hand beroende på om du är man eller kvinna utan helt enkelt för att du vill att någon ska sakna dig och komma och titta till dig ifall du blir sjuk och blir liggande i tältet. Världens värsta magsjuka, allergichock, migränanfall eller något annat som kan slå ner på en oskyldig tältare- livet blir mycket lättare ifall en vän kommer förbi med värktabletter, vatten eller kan skjutsa en till akuten ifall man hugger sig i foten med en yxa och svimmar. Så åk och bo gärna själv- men slå dig ihop med några trevliga personer att ha som sällskap.
Dessutom- om det är flera kring elden så vet röken inte var den ska blåsa!
