0 thoughts on “Handcrafting materials

  1. you’re welcome =) if you find any more jewels- please let me know =)

  2. Modern cotton velveteen is also a substitute for the plush kinds of medieval and renaissance fustian (fustani pelut, fustano piloso). I have never encountered cotton-silk velvet, but it sounds scrumptous!

    • Really, that is very interesting! Do you have any reading tips or links to that kinds of fabric and the looks of it? =) I have encountered different kinds of fustians in the First book of Fashion, but didn’t give it much thought at the time.

      • Hi Linda,

        in English, check out Maureen Fennel Mazzaoui, The Italian Cotton Industry in the Later Middle Ages It was recently reprinted and is not expensive. I am told that Stuart Peachey’s “Textiles and Materials of the Common Man and Woman 1580-1660” has more information, but I have never read it. It seems that the modern equivalents are cotton velveteen/Baumwollesamt (for the kinds with a pile) and flannelette/Moleskine (for the kinds which were brushed with a rough nap and then sheared like broadcloth/panus longus). There were cloths containing cotton with a smooth surface too … I think that buckram/boccacino often referred to those kinds.

  3. Thank you for your great tips, I will be checking them as ap =D

  4. Var hittar man dessa böcker?

  5. This is a wonderful guide to some of the things to consider when planning costume kit / garb. Thanks for sharing your planning process!

  6. I don’t think I have seen anything you have made without loving it! I love the planning process, and while the medieval mind didn’t seem to have the same esthetic as ours, I still have fun putting things together. Thanks for a great blog.

    • Oh, thanks! =D No, the historical person for sure had different taste and estethic than we have, for one thing; the need to make everything even and symmetrical seems to be a rather modern idea. I think that the most historical accurate with this outfit is the fact that the least expensive fabric (from a histrorical point of view) is at the bottom, barely visible, while the dyed fabrics are more visible =)

  7. As usual, I find your posts so informative! And your sewing is so exemplary!!

    This post is particularly fascinating to me, with the inclusion of so much of your research and examples of the art works you’ve consulted. I’m very interested in the reenacting of working women, since even though my main character is what we would now consider an “upper middle class” Icelandic woman of the 900s, still she, and everyone else who lived on the “farm,” or estate, that she administered for her late husband while awaiting its takeover by either a nephew or a son (I haven’t decided yet which, or when), had to work to keep things going.

    However, work in 900s Iceland was quite stratified by gender, with the women mostly working inside, and the men outside, except for slave women, and with the additional major exception of summer work tending herds in the mountains, where everyone of every class, but especially the young men and women going up in the hills with the herds (usually supervised by a few older chaperones, such as my own character). Nonetheless, so far two of the three outfits I have made are quite sturdy, although still ornamented with trim or embroidery, the latter which I’m also just beginning to learn.

    My third outfit is the exception: it is pretty fancy and not very practical at all, and that is because it is specifically intended to be worn at the beginning of May at our group’s Spring Coronation. The new King and Queen are not only from my local subgroup of the SCA, but also have Norse personas like me! So I must splash out. 🙂

    My blog is at timitownsend51.me, if you want to take a look. Search by category probably. I am mostly a musician, but as I said, I’m now a neophyte seamstress, as well!
    –Timi/Unnr Olafsdottir
    p.s. I loved your posts about the Viking encampments at Arsunda! Is that in Sweden?

  8. Hi, thanks for your thoughts =) I actually already read your blog- and hopefully there will be new ones finding you to! Yes, Årsunda lies about a 3-4 hour drive from our house, quite doable for a weekend event! You should come and visit some times, there are lotes of viking markets and events here!

  9. I love your new dress! It is so cool! And by the way, it’s the first time I leave a comment but I just wanted to let you know that your blog is being really helpful for my Viking reenactment stuff. 🙂

  10. I do love your creations, your feeling for fabric and colors. And your serene searching for the historic sources of course.

  11. Hi Linda!

    I’m also in the SCA, in the USA.

    As usual, your clothing is spectacular. I also really love the photos–this event looks so serene to me. Thanks for posting about it! <3

    –Timi/Lady Unnr Olafsdottir, Order of the Gilded Reed. Middle Marches Barony, Midrealm Kingdom, Society for Creative Anachronism

  12. Thank you for your kind words, and sharing =) Maybe you’ll come and visit us someday!

  13. Hi Linda,

    I am also SCA – in Canada (Kingdom of Ealdormere).

    I hope someday to make it to Europe for an SCA event. 😀 Love your blog!

    Erin/Lady Emelote of Calais

  14. Hello, what fabric did you use? 🙂

  15. Hei! Takk for hyggelig samtale på Middelalderfestivalen på Hamar. Her finner du mine tre innlegg fra i år.
    Veldig flott blogg du har, den skal jeg ta en lang titt på, etterpå.

    Hilsen Ingun Kleppan

  16. I love the blue diamond twill underdress you made. Where did you find the fabric?

  17. great! Exactly what I was looking gor. Thank you!

  18. Dress is looking awesome.NIce color combination.

  19. Pitty I’m far away from Sweden, otherwise I would go to all these places for sure. Are you travelling by any chance to the viking event that will be held in August in Wolin (Poland)? I will be there with my viking reenactment group.

  20. I absolutely love this… Is there any way to get a translated version?

    • Thanks! I do translate whenever I have time, and now I write almost everything in English, but it takes time to remake old stuff =/ I think the best is to copy+paste it into google translate if you want to read selected parts =)

  21. Hej! Vad är det för brosch du har på turbanen? Är på jakt efter något liknande till en kommande finstass a la sent 1400 🙂

    • Det är en liten ananasbrosch som är en kopia av en målning från mitten på 1400 ca =) Jag kommer inte ihåg var i från jag beställde den men har också letat mer bra 1400talssmycken. Om du hör med Johanna Lawrence (EvaJohanna arts & crafts) kanske hon är sugen på att bygga något liknande? =)

  22. Looks like a great last market day….this weekend it is rainy and cool…actually a nice change from 35C and humid. Next week we expect a hurricane, so post lovely pictures so I may live through your photos!

  23. Wow, a hurricane? I’m thankful we doesn’t get those in Sweden. I will totally come back with more viking themed posts =) Stay safe!

  24. That looks both comfy and appropriate! Win, win.

  25. Du är jätteduktig!

  26. I am very certain that I have quite recently seen or heard something about how often beads have been found in graves of men, women, and children. However, now I can’t recall if it was a paper I read or a talk at the archaeology conference I was at this summer, but it discussed something about how often there were single beads in a grave and trying to draw some conclusions about why.

  27. That’s an ingenious way of doing things! I may have to use it on my next gown with an excuse for getting lovely fancy buttons.

  28. You are so lucky to live in Sweden… We don’t have such gorgeous events down here in Spain. At least we (I mean my Scandinavian re-enactment group) could attend Wolin this year. But I also would love to take part in events in “Winterfell”. 🙂

    • Oh, wow- it sure sounds nice to live in Spain (certainly now with the cold season coming) but I hope you will be able to attend an event in Sweden someday, we are very friendly =)

      • Well, Spain is a really nice place to live, but for me heat is horrible. I was in Norway a few years ago, a the end of the winter, and I felt like in paradise. Sure it’s different when you live there… It would be great to attend an event up there in Sweden, yes. And please let me know if some day you plan to come to Spain. We even could show you our viking camp: https://bjornlandhirdenglish.wordpress.com/vestborg/. 🙂

  29. Tack för alla fina tips! Jag har som plan att sy en liknande klänning till nästa års medeltidsvecka och kommer definitivt återvända till det här inlägget då jag satt igång och behöver inspiration och knep för att få till den 😀

  30. It looks like a great Medieval Week, with excellent photos. I really like the one of you and your love. 🙂

    • Thanks Timi! Nice to hear from you too, hope your new year will be a good historical one =)

  31. Lovely, thank you for taking the time and effort to post this.

  32. Such a wonderful way to begin the new year. 🙂 Despite the heat stroke doesn’t sound very nice… If you come to visit us in Spain some day, you’d better not to do it during the summer…

  33. “To shallow an armhole will make your sleeve hang, but to wide will make movement hard.”: This makes no sense. Don´t you mean “too” instead of “to”?
    Kind regards, Charlotte Mandel, Denmark.

    • Yes, it is my English that is not always up to measure, but I do try to improve my writing and my free tutorials whenever I have the time =)

  34. Ohhhhhhh, pitty I can’t attend your workshops. I really need to retire, my work takes me a lot of time and I need that time to do more interesting things…

    • Haha, or get yourself a job with free weekends 😉 but come and visit me sometimes and we will sew lots of stuff!

  35. Thank you for this great walk through. How is the neckline finished? Should I fold it over a whip stitch? I plan to hand sew.

    • Hi, and thanks for writing! If the fabric is a thin wool or linen, I fold it twice/double to fold in the fraying edge, and then whip stitch it. If the fabric is thick/fulled I fold it once and sew it down with a whip stitch. Good luck with your sewing!

      • Hi, this looks like a great tutorial! Just one question though, how much fabric do you use?

      • It depends on several things; for a shift in linen around 2 meters, 3 meters for xxl and above. For a woolen over dress it depends on the size of the wearer, lenght of the garment and what period I want to recreate. I usually have 3 meters for a wool dress, manage fine on 2,6 but would buy more for a longer/larger person (fabric width 150 cm).

  36. Min klänning blev lite för kort. Går det att förlänga den med en rem i samma tyg, eller är det för lite ridsriktigt? Tack för fina tutorials och bilder!

    • Hej! Ja, det går säkert fint =) Det finns gott om fynd som är skarvade lite hur som helst, så hellre en klänning av småbitar som passar än en som är för kort!

  37. A wonderful post, I enjoyed the vicarious trip….one day I may make it to Sweden in real life, until then, I will keep reading!

  38. Hi! I’ve been trying to figure out why you’re measuring from shoulder to elbow when making a full length sleeve? Maybe I’ve missed something in the post, but am I right to assume that when you give an example measure of 64 when actually drafting the patterns, it’s actually measured from shoulder to wrist? Or am I just completely off? I’m confused but trying to follow along to make my first shift! 😅 haha..

    • Hi! Thank you for your question =) I measure shoulder-elbow-wrist to make the sleeve long enough when wearing the finished garment. I do this with the elbow bent 90 degrees. If you measure your arm from shoulder to wrist when it is straight, the sleeve will be a bit too short. Hope that will help! =)

  39. Ohhhhhhh, seems the Viking gods don’t want us to meet in Wolin. Maybe some day, or maybe I will go to a market in Scandinavia, who knows.

    • I sure would love to see Wolin, but it seems it always falls at the same weekend as the Medieval Week. But some day I will go there!

  40. I looove reading through your blog on my slow days at work. I’m currently looking to craft my first set of Viking garb for a foray into the SCA. I attempted a mockup of another pattern, and it turned out huge. I plan to play with it and try to make it work better for my size. However I’d very much like to try your version as well. I do have a couple questions:
    1. I live in Texas, where it’s stupid hot most of the time. Is it ill-advised to wear shift, underdress, and an apron dress? Or should I just stick to the 2 main layers of the apron and underdress?
    2. If I do make the shift using this pattern, do you suggest I continue with the 4 gores, or just use only the 2 side gores?

    • Thank you, it is so nice to hear from all readers =) When it is really hot outside, I usually go for just linen shift and apron dress. To achieve a nice look, I like to wear one of the garments full long (usually the apron dress reaching to my feet). You can totally go for 2 gores, just make them wide enough to easily move in them. Also, choosing a really thin wool for the apron dress will make it the perfect garment for warm days. Good luck!